Hearst Castle Captures the Heart

Normally when you head south from San Francisco, you’re headed straight for Los Angeles. But stick to the coast, shorten the journey by four hours, and you’ll find yourself gazing at the most unusual sight in the heart of the Californian hills.

We flew into San Francisco early on a fresh Saturday morning, but the attractions of this world-famous city were to wait until the end of our two-week road trip. We grabbed the hire car and headed south. That west coast highway has been splattered across numerous travel websites, with nothing but glowing reviews of the open road and stunning Pacific Ocean views. Such was our luck – the road was closed, so we had to head inland and drive through some not-quite-as-impressive locations. In this case, it was certainly about the destination, not the journey, as we headed towards an attraction we chose to visit simply because we saw it listed on Google Maps while planning our route.

Naively, we visited Hearst Castle knowing it had been a film set for Lady Gaga’s G.U.Y music video, not for the fascinating history of the castle and its origins.

As we pulled into the main car park, we bought our tickets and boarded a coach which drove our tour group up the hills to the castle. The track weaved its way through the Californian desert, the land as dusty and dry as firewood. It was clear to see how easily forest fires can start in this part of the world. The hills had significant ‘ranch’ vibes, with various livestock scattered across the land as the coach played an automated recording, explaining the castle’s history and connection to farming. The only sign of water for miles was the Pacific Ocean, glistening in the distance as the waves lapped against the coast hundreds of feet below.

Hearst Castle, we soon discovered, was built by William Randolph Hearst, an American newspaper publisher, politician, and famous ‘eccentric’, a reputation enhanced after spending millions of dollars constructing this castle. During his tours of Europe as a boy and later while on his honeymoon, Hearst was inspired to create a building to rival those of mainland Europe. Alongside his architect, Julia Morgan, they began designing what would prove to be Morgan’s best-known project. World-renowned for its dramatic beauty, the project became one of the longest and most fascinating collaborations between architect and client, taking a whopping 28 years to complete.

Here, Hearst would host a vast array of celebrities and politicians, schmoozing them with fine food, parties, and liquor until their lips ran loose for Hearst to make note of scandalous gossip for his publications. As we arrived at the foot of the castle, it was easy to see how easily guests could get carried away with the beauty of the building, its isolation adding to a sense that the tales you told and the secrets you spilled would stay hidden in the Californian hills.

The grand staircases to the castle alone were enough to dazzle the most glamorous of celebrities. Carved white stone lined with marble tiles, cascading fountain centre pieces surrounded by citrus trees, all in the shadow of the castle above. To the left at the top of the first staircase was the outdoor pool, its curves mirrored by classical pillars that wouldn’t be out of place in ancient Rome, and at the centre, what resembles a Roman temple, providing crucial shade from the hot Californian sun. The pure blue sky is reflected in the pool below, the colour a welcome splash of life in the barren desert of the Californian landscape.

Only members of Hearst Castle estate now swim in its cooling waters, but world leaders and a stellar cast of Hollywood greats have all enjoyed the wonders of this magnificent space. Winston Churchill, Calvin Coolidge, Cary Grant, Charlie Chaplin, the Marx brothers, Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, and Clark Gable are just a sprinkling of the galaxy of stars from the Golden Age of Hollywood who indulged themselves at this totem to opulence.

Climbing towards the castle itself, shrubs popped with dazzling colours of gold, fuchsia, and burning orange, nestled around statues from ancient Egypt. A striking statue of the Egyptian goddess, Sekhmet, sits at the foot of the main garden, its age a stark contrast to the ‘modernity’ of the buildings around it. Hearst was an enthusiast for antiques, their stories and histories, and he was quick to ship priceless items from Europe to decorate his incredible palace.

It was hard for me to believe I was in California. All this was far from Americana. This explicit European style of architecture, the treasures that filled it, and the Gothic towers topped with ornate Christian crosses, are all reminiscent of old-world Europe. A priceless Roman mosaic graces the grand entrance to the castle, preserved over thousands of years, and so priceless that visitors are diverted around it in order to avoid damaging such an ancient piece of artwork.

Beyond the entrance to the castle, you can almost hear the wild, swinging parties of the 1920s and 30s. It was the prohibition era, but money and influence bought much, and it was easy for Hearst to source liquor for his latest soirées at the castle. Donkeys would trudge tirelessly up the tracks, carrying the precious cargo that would be the source of many a celebrity’s undoing as their words spilled along with the flowing drink.

The seating and dining areas are dressed with medieval Flemish tapestries, all of which had been carefully transported from Europe to grace their final home in California. Engraved wooden ceilings, carefully carved stone pieces, and priceless artworks adorn the smoking and billiard rooms, the smell of tobacco still clinging to the walls of the castle. And the pièce de résistance? The indoor pool in the basement of the castle. An entire cave lined with mosaic tiles of blue and gold, classical statues reflecting their form by the water’s edge, and ornate lamps scattered all around. Small caverns illuminated with the most perfect lighting entice guests to explore the hidden corners of this most luxurious setting. At one end, three tremendous windows flood the pool with swathes of sunlight, leaving pockets of water basking in warmth and light, and others hidden in cool, darker corners to escape the summer heat. Amidst all this jaw-dropping splendour, our group of tourists stopped in their tracks, scarcely believing this incredible sight. I briefly considered just jumping in and dealing with the consequences later. There really can’t be another pool on earth quite like this.

Hearst poured millions into this creation, one that he would enjoy for only thirty years or so, but its legacy is something to behold. A taste of Europe in the heart of California, with the bonus of endless sunshine enhancing its splendour. Although many of the treasures within the walls had been spirited from their place of origin to be displayed in the castle, these pieces have never been better cared for. Hearst and those working for the castle today have spent years caring for these precious pieces to ensure they live on, just as Hearst desired. The castle is a place full of, and arguably, part of history. It’s a remarkable building but it’s the stories lying within the walls that have stayed with me. Some tales must remain there – secrets kept forever, only disclosed over a bottle of something special, if not illegal, within its grand halls. If only I could go back, just for a night, to be privy to some of those tales. Some secrets, I suppose, are fated to remain secrets.

Find out more here: Hearst Castle – A museum like no other: https://hearstcastle.org/