Aarhus – The world’s happiest city

When travellers think of visiting Denmark, Copenhagen is likely the first city that comes to mind. But, like many capitals across Europe, it’s hugely busy and expensive – especially in the summer season. If you’re looking for something a little more relaxed, you might consider Denmark’s second city.

Three hours by train from Copenhagen, Aarhus offers a more laid-back experience of Denmark, without compromising on scenery or culture. Named the world’s happiest city in 2023, Aarhus – a walkable city by the water, with plenty of museums, cobbled streets and Viking history – has plenty to offer on your next Scandi adventure.

Cobbled streets and painted houses of colourful Aarhus

Located on the Jutland peninsula’s eastern coast, Aarhus has long played second fiddle to Copenhagen. Still, with an innovative dining scene and acclaimed museums, the city is rapidly growing on the tourist industry radar. After checking into the hotel, my first stop was Aarhus’ harbour area. The walk from the city centre took me alongside the water, where I was passed by many, many bikes – the way to get around in Aarhus! I was visiting during the Aarhus Festival – one of Scandanavia’s largest cultural events – and the harbour area was busy with people enjoying live music. The festival attracts around half a million guests per year and is well worth a visit, if the dates of your trip allow.

The Dome arts centre set among the boats and docks of the harbour

In the harbour, I visited Domen (“The Dome”) an arts and culture venue offering views of the Helgenaes peninsula, Aarhus Cathedral and the modern district of Aarhus. Domen is a large glass structure full of greenery, which stands out against the industrial background of the docks. Here, you’ll see an emphasis on sustainability, something that is common in Aarhus. A sign inside Domen describes it as an “urban house, with a focus on community, co-creation and sustainable development”. Domen is free to visit and upstairs, you’ll find tables and sofas to relax. Downstairs, there’s more seating, a café, and a bar.

‘The Smoking Man’, by German graffiti artist Hendrik Beikirch, is the largest work of art in a public space in Aarhus,.

When checking into my hotel, I’d asked the receptionist for some food and drink recommendations. “You must try Stiller’s,” she said. “It’s the best coffee in Denmark.” Convinced, I made my way to check out this must-see spot: Stiller’s Coffee is run by Søren Stiller Markussen, an Aarhus native, and award-winning coffee expert. Inside, the café has long workbenches, exposed brickwork and lots of metal shelving. It feels industrial – a nod to the building’s past as a chocolate factory. You can order a classic or, if you’re not sure what you’d like, you can tell your server what your tastes are, and simply trust the expert. The coffee I ended up with was strong, but sweet, and well worth the search to find it, tucked in Aarhus’ old Latin Quarter. The café used to be called Great Coffee – a well-earned description, I think.

While Copenhagen is known for its thriving food scene, Aarhus has an exciting food scene of its own. Set up in old bus garages, Aarhus Street Food easily rivals Copenhagen’s Reffen or Broens markets, offering dishes from around the world with, again, a focus on sustainability. I enjoyed some fresh pasta with a Danish beer – of course – and ate at the long, shared tables outside the market.

A thriving street food scene rivals that of Copenhagen.

There is an easy-going bustle in Aarhus, a liveliness that doesn’t feel too rushed or busy. Whether you’re an art lover, history buff or foodie, there’s plenty here for you to discover at your own pace – so next time you plan a trip to Denmark, why not skip the capital and give its second city a visit?