Bavarian fairytale castle

Fifty years after first falling under Bavaria’s spell, Nick Forman returns to chase a memory — and finds that magic castle every bit as breathtaking as he remembered.

I visited Munich, home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums, over 50 years ago, when I was a serving soldier living in Germany. Captivated, I vowed to return to Bavaria, and, particularly, to a magical fairytale castle that has stuck in my mind ever since.

Neuschwanstein Castle, the fairytale palace of King Ludwig II, sits at the foothills of the Alps in Füssen, near the border with Austria. An EasyJet flight from Gatwick took less than two hours, followed by a straightforward train journey into the heart of Munich.

You have to hand it to the Germans — their public transport system works. It’s orderly, clean, efficient, value for money, and on time.

In my experience, those efficiencies more than made up for their apparent lack of humour and, at times, a certain disdain for us Brits. For two euros, you can travel up to four stops in any direction over 24 hours, though forget to punch your ticket, and you risk an on-the-spot fine. A Bavarian ticket for 36 euros sounds steep but is genuinely excellent value, valid on trains, tubes, buses and trams alike.

A City of contrasts

Munich itself is wonderfully cosmopolitan. Modern buildings housing vast department stores rub shoulders with the traditional grandeur of the Rathaus, the neo-Gothic town hall on Marienplatz. A tower rises from the building offering far-reaching city views, while beneath it lurks the Ratskeller — a vast, atmospheric labyrinth of restaurants and bars serving traditional dishes, wines and beers, all of which come highly recommended. We sampled its offerings on more than one occasion.

Ludwig Beck, also on Marienplatz, is another bucket-list experience. A top-end department store reminiscent of Harrods or Fortnum & Mason, where you can buy almost anything if your pockets are deep enough. The upper level is dedicated to traditional Bavarian dress, lederhosen, many made from deer pelt, and every conceivable accessory.

Many international brands have a presence in Munich, including the obligatory McDonald’s, but if you prefer sampling local fare, you are truly spoilt for choice. Bratwurst, schnitzel, pretzels and beer are everywhere. Germans love pork. Knuckles, hocks, sausages, every part of the animal appears on the menu. No pig is safe in Germany!

Our hotel in Munich cost around £50 a night for a comfortable double en-suite without breakfast, quiet (once we’d moved away from the busy main road), immaculately clean and well-positioned for public transport. Local cafés provided all our breakfast needs, and the tube was a five-minute walk away. Perfect.

The Journey to the Castle

Of the five days we spent in Germany, we had one glorious sunny day, fortunately, the very one we’d earmarked for our pilgrimage to Füssen. Bavarian tickets purchased, we settled aboard for the two-and-a-half-hour journey deep into the rugged foothills of the Bavarian Alps. The urban sprawl of Munich soon fell away as we sped into open countryside, at one point reaching 230 km/h.

As kites circled snow-covered mountains, green fields, rivers, traditional timbered houses and breathtaking scenery unfolded — it was no surprise to learn Julie Andrews felt truly inspired filming here.

A short bus hop delivered us into a beautiful old town, complete with its own Woolworths, of all things, and there it was, at last: Neuschwanstein Castle.

The Castle Revealed

It really is a breathtaking sight. This vast building towers above you, growing out of sheer rock face as it sits majestically with 360-degree views of open countryside, lakes, rivers, waterfalls and snow-capped mountains. We chose to walk the 35 minutes to the castle entrance, though buses run frequently and a horse-drawn carriage is available for those of a more romantic inclination.

Access is an eye-watering 27 euros each for a 30-minute restricted tour, but many visitors choose to admire the exterior only. For many, this is the most vivid memory of this spectacular castle with its towering façade set against the mountains, and views looking across the River Lech.

With raging waterfalls 100 metres beneath your feet as you cross this very bouncy footbridge, it probably wouldn’t be recommended for the faint-hearted — or those with vertigo.

We found the finest view of this magnificent building was from the Marienbrücke, Mary’s Bridge, a 35-metre suspension bridge spanning the Pollat Gorge. The waterfalls rage 100 metres below as you cross it, and the bridge bounces reassuringly beneath your feet.

Adventure complete, we reversed our journey, arriving back in central Munich in time for an evening meal at our favourite venue, the Rathaus. The streets and venues were buzzing with visitors, including a group from Scotland wearing full lederhosen, intent on enjoying a rather raucous stag night.

Worth Every Moment

Germany is a vast country with so much to offer. The Bavarian Alps are a great starting point, providing just a tantalising snapshot of what’s on offer — and it’s less than a two-hour flight from the UK. You may choose to spend a day on a long-haul flight and another recovering from the journey, or you could hop on a flight to Munich and soak up the amazing scenery, beautiful buildings and stunning views. I know which option I would choose.

Traveller’s Notes

Getting There: EasyJet and other carriers fly from UK airports to Munich Franz Josef Strauss Airport in under two hours. Allow 45–60 minutes for the train into central Munich.

Getting Around: A Bavarian Day Ticket (Bayernticket) costs around €36 and covers trains, S-Bahn, U-Bahn, trams and buses throughout Bavaria — ideal for the day trip to Füssen. Single short-hop fares start at €2.

To Neuschwanstein: From Füssen station, take bus 73 or 78 to the castle stop (Hohenschwangau). It is then a 35-minute uphill walk to the castle entrance, or take one of the frequent shuttle buses. Horse-drawn carriages are also available.

Castle Admission: Guided tours cost approximately €27 per adult and last 30 minutes. Booking in advance online is strongly recommended, especially in summer. Many visitors choose to view the exterior free of charge.

Mary’s Bridge: The Marienbrücke suspension bridge offers the most iconic view of Neuschwanstein, spanning the Pollat Gorge high above the valley floor. Note: occasionally closed in winter due to ice.

Accommodation: Budget hotels in Munich offer good double rooms from approximately £50 per night. Request a rear-facing room if your hotel is on a busy road. The U-Bahn makes almost anywhere in the city convenient.

Food & Drink: The Ratskeller beneath Munich’s Rathaus on Marienplatz is highly recommended for traditional Bavarian cuisine — hearty portions, local beer and a wonderfully atmospheric setting. Street vendors selling Bratwurst and pretzels are ubiquitous.

More Information: www.neuschwanstein.de/englisch/tourist/