A Cultural Fusion…and the Secret Life of Dogs
As a customary ritual for escaping the stresses of final year university exams, May heralds the opportunity to shed the worries and gloomy British spring, and embrace the warmer climes of early summer by jetting southwards. Last year was Sicily….but where this term? And on a student budget.
Last year Sicily had been a blast and would be hard to beat… but this year our compass pointed towards a deeper trip into the Mediterranean…Malta, and the islands of Gozo, and Comino.
Malta’s location in the heart of the Mediterranean, between Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, between the Christian and the Muslim worlds, and on busy shipping lanes that run north, south, east, and west, creates a unique melting pot with an eclectic mix of cultures and influences from around the globe.
These Maltese islands have been colonised time and again for the sake of politics, religion, trade, and warfare, factors that have bequeathed a colorful and complex heritage. This fusion of cultures is immediately apparent. The Maltese language appears a mix of Arabic, Hebrew, AfroAsian, with a hint of Sicilian. The Maltese flag, seen everywhere, bears an impression of the George Cross, awarded to the island by King George VI to “bear witness to the heroism and devotion of its people” during the great siege it underwent in the early parts of World War II. Other reminders of UK sovereignty include plug sockets, road signs, and left-hand driving.
The roads and their familiar driving practices took us to our first, and slightly disappointing destination, St Paul’s Bay. A convenient location for exploring the north side of the island, it does, however, come complete with the unsatisfying accoutrements of modern tourism – chain restaurants, high-rise hotels, and British pubs with British names – two of them dedicated to the memory of Princess Diana, perhaps emphasising the keen interest and support the islanders retain for the monarchy.
Choosing to leave cultural enrichment for another day, we spent our inaugural morning indulging in the natural British pilgrimage for sun, sand, and sea. Paradise Bay did not disappoint. A secluded sandy beach, accessed via a 100-step staircase, it is the perfect location for topping up the tan. Clear blue skies beaten only by the crystal blue water, were an ideal recuperation for post-exam stress.
As we all know, pasta is everyone’s guilty pleasure, and when you’re on a shoestring budget what beats an authentic street vendor for a taste of the most delicious, freshly cooked pasta in town? With reviews boasting “Delicious pasta and pizza!”, ” The best place to eat this summer!”, it would be rude not to sample the I Love Pasta food truck run by local Albert Fenech in St Paul’s Bay. Serving the tastiest fresh pasta with the most exquisite sauces, this vendor is beloved by locals and tourists alike.
Continuing to nurture our inner tourist, we took a boat trip to Comino, and the aptly named, Blue Lagoon. The smallest of Malta’s inhabited islands, Comino makes a perfect day trip. As such, it is one of Malta’s not-so-hidden gems. The Blue Lagoon, with its crystal clear turqoise waters and jagged cliffs, is a bucket-list destination and a perfect location for swimming and hiking. With hardly any traffic, it’s a perfect escape from the busy Valletta streets and hubub. Boat tours are abundant and whether you choose just to take the ferry or go for a longer cruise, the picturesque land and seascapes cascade your senses with Insta-worthy shots of beautiful cliffs and azure waters.
Another day, another ferry. And another island. Gozo has been inhabited for thousands of years, with evidence of immigration and rule by the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Sicilians, French, and British, to name just a few. A beautiful, rural island, it’s known for perfect beaches, scuba-diving sites, hiking routes, and the world’s oldest free-standing temples of Ggantija, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The capital city, Victoria, still referred to by locals by its historic name, Rabat, is a vibrant hub of activity and culture. Large open squares connected by a maze of narrow streets, each crammed with market stalls, historic tales, and a captivating past, help to create the rich cafe culture atmosphere so adored by Europeans. A vibrant culinary scene brims with the scents and rich flavours of a journey through traditional Mediterranean dishes. Restaurants offer a variety of menus echoing the continental vibe, each providing the traditional dishes that are an essential part of the Gozo experience. At Ta Bertu’s, our choice for dinner, the menu offered tempting variations of national dishes perfectly matched with a glorious bottle of Maltese wine.
Marsaxlokk is the place to be on Sunday. It’s probably on every traveller’s list of places to go in Malta. Pretty as a picture, this fishing village on the east coast was established by the Phoenicians but fishing had been taking place here for centuries. The waterfront market, boasting an expansive sea of eclectic market stalls selling jewellery, scarves, paintings, and other souveniers, takes place each day but is extended on Sundays when the local fishermen sell the catch they’ve made that morning. The smell of fish pervades the air as both locals and tourists flock to buy the freshest of fish on the busiest day of the week. A simply beautiful village, what makes the port unique are the colourful boats. These traditional fishing boats, called ‘luzzu’, date back to Phoenician times and their ancient heritage is proclaimed with the painting of eyes at the prow…a throwback to the Eye of Horus, the ancient Egyptian symbol of protection.
Close to Marsaxlokk is another landmark attraction for both locals and tourists. St. Peter’s Pool, a popular swimming spot next to Marsalokk Bay, is a natural pool surrounded by a large flat slab of rock, perfect for sunbathing. Not particularly easy to reach, access is by a rough track, followed by the use of a ladder to enter the water (or diving off the rock surface). Still, it remains a well-loved bathing spot and a fantastic location for swimming and snorkelling. It even has it’s own unique claim to fame…the legendary Maltese diving dog, Titti.
In 2017 Titti gained global fame after videos emerged of him diving into St Peter’s Pool with his owner, Carmelo Abelo. The small Jack Russell became a sensation for tourists with his synchronised diving prowess and became the star of a television series, ‘The Secret Life of Dogs.’
Titti has now been followed by Tina, another brave little terrier who has amassed her own legion of adoring fans with her audacious leaps from the cliffs at St Peter’s Pool. While Tina fished quietly in a shallow pool nearby, we swam over and spoke to Carmelo. He told us; “It’s all about trust. She trusts me and whatever I do, she does it. When I tell her to jump, she jumps.” The pair even have their own social media page with over 8,000 followers. All in all, a rather unexpected celebrity encounter.
Whether you’re a sunseeker, a history lover, a culture buff, or just inclined to explore one of Europe’s smallest capital cities on your own two feet, Valletta rewards visitors with a host of harbourside history, from 17th-century fortifications to ornate churches, museums, and bustling cobbled streets. Once an enclave for the Knights of St John, Valletta has an enduring charm that perfectly blends the Baroque with modern elegance. Strolling the streets of Valletta it’s easy to suffer ‘decision paralysis’. Every corner reveals new delights, extraordinary art studios, restaurants, bars, and museums, all overlooked by the grand buildings that declare Malta the cultural bridge it has forever been, between the eclectic cultures of Europe, Africa, and the Middle East.
So, thank you Malta, the perfect blend of serene beaches, a vibrant atmosphere, and a unique amalgamation of cultures. It’s time to sit, sip on a bottle of your delicious local wine, and enjoy a bowl of pasta as we watch the world go by.
Gus Harrison is a post-graduate law student from Bristol University
