A Venetian Love Affair

It’s not really in my nature to go somewhere twice…but there is one place I’ve gone out of my way to visit more than once…Venice.

Now in my thirties, I’ve been here three times. As a teenager, in my twenties, and now, recently married, excited to share the most beautiful city in the world, with my new husband. If I am spending money to go on holiday then I want to experience something new. But Venice is exceptional…and unique in many ways. Not least because it has no roads…just canals.

A maze of narrow alleys, lanes, dead-ends, bridges, and secret courtyards. A place that if you visit more than once, you may never find the same places you did before. Unless you’re my father, who managed to find the same incredible pizzeria tucked away in a back alley two days in a row. Of course, Venice is awash with pizzerias, and not one of them would disappoint. Thin, stone-baked crust drizzled with fresh, homemade tomato sauce, infused with garlic, onion, and basil, and draped with thick, creamy, buffalo mozzarella. If you have the best ingredients, lovingly prepared by the most talented chefs, there’s no need to complicate matters. Simplicity is key.

Living a little (for me), I chose a pepperoni over my normal go-to, pizza quattro formaggi, at a quiet elegant restaurant sited a little way off the main tourist track. Accompanied with an Aperol spritz, we sat under a canopy as a freak storm unleashed its fury upon unsuspecting tourists. As many rushed inside, we Brits, all too used to rainy days, remained under the canopy, calmly enjoying the sight and sound of rain bouncing off the stone floor of the alley and listening to the low drum of thunder in the distance.

To save on pennies, we chose eateries situated away from the Grand Canal and St. Mark’s Square, not so bad, when we discovered we weren’t compromising on quality by doing so. There are, however, some budgetary sacrifices that simply have to be made…coffee in St. Mark’s Square is one.

Years of hearing the mantra “Don’t have a coffee in St. Mark’s Square, it’ll be the most expensive coffee you ever buy”, went sailing down the Grand Canal as my husband and I came upon one of the best-known and oldest coffee shops in the world, just a stone-throw from St. Mark’s Cathedral…the Caffe Florian. This elegant building still retains the charm of the ages it has lived through. Noblemen, politicians, intellectuals, and womanisers…think Casanova…have all met within these richly decorated rooms, lending their own imprint upon a cafe that has become a symbol of the city.

But it’s not just a coffee you’re buying into at Caffe Florian…it’s a whole experience. An orchestra plays softly at the entrance, and as you enter, waiters, dressed in sharp Italian dark suits with impeccable bow ties, guide you to your seat. From rich breakfasts to afternoon teas, everything is served in Florian branded livery, from the water jugs and tea pots, to the smallest sachet of sugar…the taste of over 300 years of history.

So, yes, two cappuccinos cost €32, probably the most expensive coffee I will ever buy, but it remains, however, an ideal place for tourists who simply want to enjoy an expresso sitting at a little table in the heart of Venice, just a few steps from the Grand Canal and St. Mark’s Cathedral.

Across the crowded square St Mark’s Cathedral towers above us in all its glory, but its true magnificence lies within. This ornate cathedral seamlessly blends Gothic, Byzantine, Romanesque, and Renaissance styles. Crowned with soaring domes and breathtaking golden mosaics, the basilica stands as a testament to Venice’s rich history. No surprise then, that queues, often over 45 minutes long, spiral into the square.

St Mark’s Square, the Piazza San Marco, is the beating heart of the city. It’s also the only ‘square’ in the city…all other similar spaces are called ‘Campi’. It plays host to all the important events in Venice and Napoleon Bonaparte once called it “the most beautiful living room in Europe.” Dedicated to the Evangelist, Mark, patron saint of Venice, it never fails to surprise and inspire visitors with its beauty, full of art, culture, cafes and live music.

The extraordinary history of Venice can be felt every inch of the way as you explore this fascinating city. It’s a jewel in the crown of worldwide tourism, and without a doubt, one of the most romantic cities in the world. With unparalleled charm, and a story to tell on every street corner, Venice mesmerises in its tangled maze of alleys, canals, and bridges. This was not my final visit to Venice…nor will the next one be. It’s a destination that keeps pulling you back, a dream of a city that floats on water, awe-inspiring, and profoundly beautiful. Whenever I return, I know it will reveal something new. It will be like visiting for the first time. And it will create memories that will last a lifetime.