Herceg Novi – Montenegro’s Coastal Secret
‘Herceg where?’ I hear you ask…Well, Herceg Novi was my first glimpse of Montenegro, and from the moment I set eyes on it, I knew it would remain etched in my memory.
Nestled at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor in southwestern Montenegro, this coastal town is one of the first towns travellers reach after crossing the border from Croatia. It rests beneath an endless blue sky, where sunlight dances across the Adriatic, and mountains rise steeply behind to shut out the rest of the world. Herceg Novi welcomed us not with crowds and noise, but with stillness. It felt untouched, unhurried, and quietly confident in its own charm. It possesses a sense of calm I find myself longing to return to.
There is something wonderfully authentic about life here. Mornings begin slowly as golden sunlight spills across the bay, illuminating the terracotta rooftops. The town feels intimate, almost secretive, as though we’ve stumbled upon a hidden sanctuary known only to those willing to linger. There is time and space to wander, to observe, and to embrace the gentle rhythm of Montenegrin life.
Slow Days, Secret Coves
Most days are spent strolling along the waterfront promenade, which stretches beside the sea, linking beaches, cafés, restaurants and bars. It is the perfect setting for an unhurried wander and for discovering new places to stop and soak up the sunshine. Along the coastline, small pebbled beaches appear like hidden coves tucked between rocky outcrops. Quiet and unspoilt, they offer the rare feeling that you have the entire shoreline to yourself.
Stepping directly from the promenade into the crystal-clear water becomes a daily ritual. Beneath the surface, smooth pebbles shift gently underfoot while sunlight shimmers across the sea. Most afternoons find me at the beach beside Plaža kod Tunela, a spot that never feels overcrowded. With a book in hand, my feet immersed in the water, and the warmth of the sun on my face, I feel completely at peace.
The soundtrack is simple: the murmur of local conversations, the distant clink of glasses from nearby cafés and the rhythmic lapping of waves against the shore. At times, the sea is so still it resembles a mountain lake. I have little interest in rows of expensive sunbeds; instead, I spread my towel across the smooth, sun-warmed rocks and embrace the simplicity of it all.
As evening approaches, the town gently awakens. Restaurants and bars fill with life as locals and visitors drift into the streets, gathering on stone steps and waterfront terraces to catch the final glow of the setting sun. The atmosphere is lively but never overwhelming. What makes Herceg Novi so appealing is that it never feels like a destination trying to impress. Its charm is effortless. Rather than large hotels dominating the seafront, much of the accommodation consists of family-run apartments and guesthouses, allowing visitors to experience everyday life more intimately.
We stay on the top floor of a family home that has been converted into an Airbnb. From the balcony, I watch neighbours chatting across narrow streets while washing flutters in the warm breeze between buildings. Our hosts embody the warmth and hospitality that seem woven into the fabric of the town. They happily shared recommendations and even arranged a taxi from the Croatian border to our accommodation.
Stone Steps and Clock Towers
The old town may be compact, but it is rich in character. Wandering through its narrow lanes reveals charming squares, stone buildings and centuries of history. Belavista Square forms the heart of the old town, while the Sahat Kula, a 17th-century clock tower perched above a grand staircase, stands as one of Herceg Novi’s most recognisable landmarks.
Overlooking the waterfront stands Kanli Kula, a former Ottoman fortress whose name translates as “Bloody Tower”. Despite its turbulent past, it now offers some of the most spectacular views in Montenegro. The uphill climb is steep, and the entrance fee a modest 4 euros, but the reward is a breathtaking panorama across the rooftops, the Bay of Kotor and the surrounding mountains. The fortress also houses a remarkable open-air amphitheatre, making it one of the town’s most atmospheric attractions.
Into the Bay of Kotor
One of the most popular excursions from Herceg Novi is a boat tour of the bay, taking in Our Lady of the Rocks, Kotor, Perast and Stoliv. Our first stop is Our Lady of the Rocks, a small Catholic church built, almost improbably, on a man-made island in the middle of the sea. Surrounded by shimmering water and mountain scenery, it feels almost dreamlike.
From there, we continue to Kotor. In contrast to Herceg Novi’s tranquillity, Kotor buzzes with energy and visitors. We spend our time getting lost among its maze of cobbled streets and hidden alleyways, discovering elegant squares, medieval churches and pockets of history around every corner.
Our third stop is Perast, which quickly becomes my favourite place on the tour. Arguably one of Montenegro’s most beautiful towns, Perast possesses a timeless elegance. We wander along the waterfront, admiring the stone palaces and church towers reflected in the bay. Behind them, dramatic mountain peaks rise sharply into the sky, creating scenery so spectacular it scarcely seems real. Climbing the bell tower offers sweeping views across the entire bay and a chance to appreciate the remarkable setting from above.
The final stop is Stoliv, where we welcome the opportunity to cool off from the afternoon heat. We jump from the boat into the clear water and spend time snorkelling among shoals of small fish, enjoying the refreshing simplicity of being immersed in the bay itself.
The day on the water deepens my appreciation for Montenegro. I already love Herceg Novi, but seeing the town from the sea reveals an entirely different perspective. Framed by mountains and bathed in Adriatic light, it appears even more beautiful from afar.
Yet it is not the landmarks or photographs that stay with me most. It is the feeling of Herceg Novi itself: the stillness of the mornings, the warmth of the people, the sparkle of the Adriatic and the sense that life moves at exactly the pace it is meant to be lived.
Traveller’s Notes
Herceg Novi, Montenegro
Essential Day Trip
Bay of Kotor Boat Tour with Petar Boats
One of the highlights of my time in Herceg Novi is a full-day excursion around the Bay of Kotor with Petar Boats, a family-run local operator based in the town since 2003. Their popular eight-hour tour follows almost the exact route described in this article, stopping at Perast, Kotor, Our Lady of the Rocks and Stoliv, with time for swimming in the bay. Guests are welcomed aboard with local refreshments while guides share stories about the history and culture of the region.
Website: Petar Boats Herceg Novi
Bay of Kotor Tour: Bay of Kotor Excursion
The itinerary typically includes:
- Perast
- Kotor Old Town
- Our Lady of the Rocks
- Stoliv swimming stop
- Panoramic views of Porto Montenegro and the Tivat Riviera
For visitors with less time, Petar Boats also operates shorter excursions to the Blue Cave, Mamula Island and the historic submarine tunnels near Rose.
Getting There
Herceg Novi sits just a few kilometres from the Croatian border and is often the first Montenegrin town visitors encounter when travelling south from Dubrovnik. The nearest airport is Dubrovnik Airport in Croatia, approximately 30km away, while Tivat Airport provides another convenient option on the Montenegrin side of the Bay of Kotor.
Where to Stay
Accommodation is good value, with plenty of well-priced Airbnbs to choose from. For the most authentic experience, choose a family-run apartment or Airbnb rather than a large resort. Staying in a local neighbourhood offers a glimpse into everyday life, from neighbours chatting across balconies to washing fluttering between stone buildings.
Best Beach Spot
Plaža kod Tunela is a peaceful stretch of shoreline popular with locals and visitors seeking a quieter alternative to Montenegro’s larger beach resorts. Bring a towel rather than relying on sunbeds; some of the best spots are simply smooth rocks warmed by the Adriatic sun.
Where to Eat
For dinner, Gradska Kafana is a personal favourite, with excellent food and balcony seating, with the most beautiful view over the bay. https://www.gradskakafana.com/
Seafood with a View
Konoba Feral is one of Herceg Novi’s best known seafood restaurants, renowned for fresh Adriatic fish and waterfront views. https://www.konobaferal.com/#/home
Traditional Montenegrin Dining
Tri Lipe is a long-standing local favourite close to the sea front, known for hearty Montenegrin dishes and seafood. Great atmosphere and always popular with visiting yacht crews.
Don’t Miss
Kanli Kula Fortress
Perched above the old town, this historic fortress offers sweeping views across Herceg Novi and the Bay of Kotor. Its open-air amphitheatre regularly hosts concerts and cultural events during the summer.
Belavista Square & Sahat Kula
The historic heart of Herceg Novi, where elegant stone buildings and the seventeenth-century clock tower capture the town’s distinctive character.
Best Time to Visit
May, June and September offer warm weather, calm seas and fewer crowds than the peak summer months. The promenade remains lively, but the town retains the relaxed atmosphere that makes Herceg Novi so memorable.
